The Middle Ages witnessed a remarkable transformation in humanity’s relationship with diamonds. From the early medieval period when these precious stones arrived in Europe as mysterious curiosities from the East, to the late 15th century when revolutionary cutting techniques unlocked their brilliant potential, diamonds evolved from mere talismans into symbols of power, wealth, and eventually love.

This thousand-year journey saw diamonds transition from rough, uncut stones worn for their supposed magical properties to expertly crafted gems that adorned the crowns of kings and sealed the bonds of marriage. This story of medieval diamonds is one of technological innovation, international trade, and the enduring human fascination with beauty and rarity.

Find the complete history of diamonds here: ‘A Complete History Of Diamonds: From The Ancient Era To Today‘. Interested in finding out how diamonds enable quantum computing? Click here.

A History Of Diamonds In The Middle Ages (500 – 1500)

The medieval period marked a pivotal era in diamond history, beginning with their virtual absence in early medieval Europe while remaining treasures of the East, progressing through gradual introduction via Byzantine and Islamic trade networks, and culminating with sophisticated cutting techniques by the late 1400s. This millennium saw the evolution from diamonds as unknown rarities to the development of the point cut, table cut, and the revolutionary invention of the scaif polishing wheel, transforming these stones from dark, mysterious objects into brilliant gems that would captivate European nobility and establish traditions that endure to this day.

Chronology

• 500-600 – Indian diamond mining continues along the Krishna, Godavari and Penner rivers during the Gupta period (320-550 CE), with India remaining the world’s sole source of diamonds [1]
• 600 – The Mahajanapada Empire establishes units of measurement for diamonds called Tandula (weight of a grain of rice) and creates price lists in Sanskrit showing diamonds worth 200,000 Rupaka [2]
• 600-700 – Indian diamonds continue to be mined from alluvial deposits along the Krishna, Godavari, and Penna rivers in the Deccan region, though trade to Europe remains minimal following Rome’s fall [1]
• 700-800 – Arab traders gain control of Indian Ocean trade routes, becoming intermediaries for Indian diamonds; Islamic merchants transport diamonds from Indian mines to Middle Eastern markets [3]
• 786-809 – Tales of Sinbad the Sailor written during reign of Abbasid Caliph Harun al-Rashid describe India’s legendary Valley of Diamonds, reflecting Arab knowledge of Indian diamond mining regions [1]
• 950-1050 – Islamic Golden Age facilitates increased diamond trade; Arab merchants regularly bring rubies and diamonds from India and Sri Lanka to Middle Eastern markets, with some reaching Byzantine traders [3]
• 1050-1100 – First Crusade (1096-1099) brings Europeans into direct contact with Eastern luxury goods; crusaders encounter diamonds in Byzantine and Islamic treasuries, sparking European interest [4]
• 1200s – The earliest European inventories mentioning diamonds appear, describing stones in their natural, uncut state as found in India [5]
• 1280-1310 – European inventories begin distinguishing between “made” (altered) and “unmade” (natural) diamonds, indicating the beginning of diamond working in Europe [5]
• 1304 – Sultan Alauddin Khalji of the Delhi Sultanate allegedly acquires a large diamond (possibly the future Koh-i-Noor) when invading kingdoms of southern India [6]
• 1310 – Malik Kafur, Alauddin Khalji’s general, raids Warangal and may have acquired the diamond later known as the Koh-i-Noor [6]
• 1330 – European diamond cutting begins in Venice following the opening of trade routes to the East by Venetian merchants [7]
• 1330s – Venice becomes a major diamond trading center as merchants gain access to Indian diamonds through Islamic traders [7]
• 1339 – A significant diamond (possibly the future Koh-i-Noor) is taken to Samarkand where it remains for nearly 300 years [8]
• Mid-1300s – The table cut appears, created by grinding away one point of an octahedral diamond to create a flat top surface [5]
• 1350s – The point cut becomes the standard way of shaping diamonds, following the natural octahedral crystal form [9]
• 1375 – The first guild of diamond cutters and polishers (Diamantaire) is formed in Nuremberg, Germany [10]
• Late 1300s – Diamond cutting guilds develop the single cut by adding corner facets to create eight facets total [11]
• Late 1300s – The rose cut begins development during this period, though it won’t gain popularity until the 16th century [7]
• 1400s – Diamond cutting centers develop in Paris, Bruges, and Antwerp as Europe’s economic center shifts to the North Sea region [7]
• 1400s – The step cut emerges as a precursor to the modern emerald cut [12]
• 1400s – Jewish craftsmen become prominent in the diamond trade, as it was one of the few professions they were permitted to practice [7]
• Mid-1400s – The table cut undergoes refinement with the addition of a culet (small facet on the bottom point) [11]
• 1456 – The claim that Lodewyk van Bercken invented the scaif (diamond polishing wheel) in this year is disputed by modern historians [13]
• 1458 – A Belgian diamond cutter (possibly van Bercken) discovers that diamonds can be cut and polished using their own dust [12]
• 1467 – Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, allegedly wears the Florentine Diamond (137.27 carats) when killed in battle [14]
• 1470s – Lodewyk van Bercken allegedly commissioned by Charles the Bold to cut three major diamonds, including the Florentine [15]
• 1475 – The scaif polishing wheel revolutionizes diamond cutting, enabling precise faceting and symmetry [15]
• 1475 – The first pear-shaped (briolette) diamond cut is developed, introducing the concept of absolute symmetry in faceting [16]
• 1476 – The Battle of Morat where Charles the Bold loses the Florentine Diamond, which is found by a soldier who sells it for a florin thinking it’s glass [14]
• 1477 – Charles the Bold dies at the Battle of Nancy on January 5, still allegedly wearing valuable diamonds [14]
• 1477 – Archduke Maximilian of Austria gives Mary of Burgundy the first documented diamond engagement ring, featuring diamonds arranged in the shape of an ‘M’ [17]
• 1480s – Diamond cutting techniques spread throughout Europe with centers established in major trading cities [7]
• 1490s – Advanced cutting techniques allow for more complex shapes including early marquise and oval cuts [9]
• Late 1400s – The rotary grinding wheel is introduced for diamond cutting, greatly improving precision [7]
• 1500 – By century’s end, diamonds have transformed from rough talismans to sophisticated cut gems symbolizing power, wealth, and love [18]

Final Thoughts

The medieval period fundamentally transformed diamonds from exotic Eastern curiosities into integral elements of European culture and craftsmanship. What began as rough stones valued primarily for their hardness and supposed magical properties evolved through centuries of innovation into brilliant gems that captured and reflected light in ways previously unimaginable.

The establishment of cutting guilds, the invention of revolutionary tools like the scaif, and the creation of new cuts laid the foundation for the modern diamond industry. Perhaps most significantly, the 1477 gift of a diamond ring from Maximilian to Mary of Burgundy initiated a tradition that would eventually spread worldwide.

By 1500, Europe had not only mastered the art of diamond cutting but had also woven these precious stones into the fabric of power, romance, and artistic expression, setting the stage for diamonds to become the ultimate symbol of enduring love and commitment.

Thanks for reading!

References

[1] Golconda diamonds – Wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golconda_diamonds

[2] Diamond History of India – Family & Co. Jewelers – https://www.familyjewelers.com/blog/2019/Oct/06/diamond-history-india/

[3] Trade and Commerce During the Islamic Golden Age | The Review of Religions – https://www.reviewofreligions.org/41191/trade-and-commerce-during-the-islamic-golden-age/

[4] Medieval Jewelry – Antique Jewelry University – https://www.langantiques.com/university/medieval-jewelry/

[5] Evolution of Diamond Cuts – Museum Diamonds – https://museumdiamonds.com/evolution-of-diamond-cuts/

[6] Explained: The History Of The Kohinoor Diamond And The Timeline Of Its Possession – https://www.outlookindia.com/national/explained-the-history-of-the-kohinoor-diamond-and-the-timeline-of-its-possession-news-291358

[7] A History of Diamond Cutting – Antique Jewelry University – https://www.langantiques.com/university/a-history-of-diamond-cutting/

[8] History of Kohinoor Diamond – Kohinoor Diamond of India – https://kohinoordiamond.org/history-of-kohinoor-diamond/

[9] The History of Diamond Cutting (Part I) | Zillion – https://www.myzillion.com/post/the-history-of-diamond-cutting-part-i/

[10] Diamond cutting – Wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond_cutting

[11] Diamond cut – Wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond_cut

[12] The History Of The First Diamond Cuts Oldmine – https://www.oldmineshop.com/blog/https/oldmineshopcom/blog-page-url/new-post-title-3

[13] Lodewyk van Bercken – The Father of Diamond Cutting Who Never Existed – https://levysfinejewelry.com/blogs/articles/lodewyk-van-bercken

[14] Florentine Diamond – Antique Jewelry University – https://www.langantiques.com/university/florentine-diamond/

[15] Lodewyk van Bercken – Wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lodewyk_van_Bercken

[16] The History of Diamond Cutting | Cape Town Diamond Museum – https://www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org/education/history-of-diamond-cutting/

[17] The First Diamond Engagement Ring – https://www.engagementringbible.com/who-had-the-first-diamond-engagement-ring/

[18] History of Diamond Cutting – The Point Cut and Wearing Rough Diamonds – https://levysfinejewelry.com/pages/history-of-diamond-cutting-point-cut